Introduction:
Rouge, or
commonly known as blusher, is a coloured cosmetic which is used to enhance or
add colour to the face, provide a more youthful appearance, emphasize and give
some dimension or shape to their cheekbones by reddening their cheeks using
rouge. This type of cosmetic may also give some shading effect to the face.
Generally, fair complexions are enhanced by soft shades of peach and pink while
brown complexions are best accented with coral shades.
The early form of rouges were
ointments, but modern manufacturing has marketed blushers in many forms
including liquid suspension, emulsified creams and lotions, water-free creams
and also hydrous and anhydrous gels. Moist rouge is applied before powder while
dry rouge is used to accent the already powdered makeup. The colorants used can
either be organic pigments, inorganic pigments, natural dyes or pearlescent
pigments.
Currently, the pressed powder
becomes more popular among the consumers due to its desirable matte finishing
and long-lasting wear potential. It is applied with a blush brush. This formula
works for all skin types especially for oily skin. In modern times, rouge
consists of a red-coloured talcum-based powder that is applied with a brush to
the cheek.
Objective:
1.
To formulate cream rouge.
2.
To formulate cream rouge from 2
commercial hard lipstick preparations.
3.
To study the factor affecting the colour
shading in cream rouge.
4.
To evaluate the effect of storage
condition on the final product.
Date
of Experiment:
24-3-2015
Apparatus:
Evaporating dish, weighing boat, weighing machine,
beaker, spatula, pestle and mortar
Materials:
Cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat,
liquid paraffin, borax, colourants, water
Procedure:
1.
80g of the basic cream formulation is
prepared.
2.
The cocoa butter, beeswax, wool fat,
cetyl alcohol, liquid paraffin and borax is weighed and is melted on a
evaporating dish by using water bath. The mixture is stirred slowly during
heating process.
3.
Once the ingredients is melted, the
mixture is taken from the heat to cool the mixture.
4.
The water is added to the warm mixture
and stirred.
5.
Step 2 to 4 is reapeated to prepare 50g
of a cream rouge by adding also the 2%
of soluble red colouring agent.
6.
4 other cream rouge is prepared by
diluting 2% cream rouge accordingly to obtain various shades of colour with the
suggested concentration of colouring agent: 0.125- 2%.
7.
The rouge preparation is kept in the
dark and also exposed to sunlight for 2 months.
8.
Skin irritation test is conducted on the
cream rouge by putting it on the cheek
for 8 hours.
Result:
Basic
powder formulation
|
80g
of C0 (0%)
|
50g
of C2 (2%)
|
|
Cocoa
butter
|
5%
|
4g
|
2.5g
|
Beeswax
|
12%
|
9.6g
|
6g
|
Cetyl
alcohol
|
1%
|
0.8g
|
0.5g
|
Wool
fat
|
5%
|
4g
|
2.5g
|
Liquid
Parsffin
|
30%
|
24g
|
15g
|
Borax
|
1%
|
0.8g
|
0.5g
|
Colorants
(Erythrosine)
|
2%
|
xxx
|
1g
|
Water
qs ad
|
100%
|
80g
|
22g
|
Code
|
Colourant
(%)
|
Amount
of C2 (g)
|
Amount
of C0 (g)
|
Total
amount of rouge (g)
|
C1
|
2
|
20
|
-
|
20
|
C2
|
1
|
15
|
10
|
20
|
C3
|
0.5
|
10
|
15
|
20
|
C4
|
0.25
|
5
|
17.5
|
20
|
C5
|
0.125
|
2.5
|
18.75
|
20
|
Total
(g)
|
38.75
(~50)
|
47.5
(~80)
|
1.
Cream rouge under the sun
Code
|
Colour
separation
|
Contamination
|
Change
in colour
|
Viscosity
|
C1
|
No
|
No
|
Change
pale white
|
Soften
|
C2
|
No
|
No
|
Change
pale white
|
Soften
|
C3
|
No
|
No
|
Change
pale white
|
Hard
|
C4
|
No
|
No
|
Change
pale white
|
Hard
|
C5
|
No
|
No
|
Change
pale white
|
Hard
|
2.
Cream rouge in dark condition
Code
|
Colour
separation
|
Contamination
|
Change
in colour
|
Viscosity
|
C1
|
No
|
No
|
No
|
Soften
|
C2
|
No
|
No
|
No
|
Soften
|
C3
|
No
|
No
|
No
|
Hard
|
C4
|
No
|
No
|
No
|
Hard
|
C5
|
No
|
No
|
No
|
Hard
|
3.
Cream rouge test on cheek
Code
|
Site
of Testing
|
Duration
of time
|
Result
|
C1
|
Cheek
|
8
Hours
|
No
irritation
|
C2
|
Cheek
|
8
Hours
|
No
irritation
|
C3
|
Cheek
|
8
Hours
|
No
irritation
|
C4
|
Cheek
|
8
Hours
|
No
irritation
|
C5
|
Cheek
|
8
Hours
|
No
irritation
|
4.
Chart of colour shading of cream rouge
Code
|
C1
|
C2
|
C3
|
C4
|
C5
|
Colourant
(%)
|
2
|
1
|
0.5
|
0.25
|
0.125
|
Colour
|
Discussion:
Cream rouge can be divided into two phases which are the oil phase
and water phase. The ingredient that present in oil phase of cream rouge are
cocoa butter, beeswax, wool fat and liquid paraffin while the water phase is
usually the preservatives, colorants and water. Two creams formulation are made up in this experiment where
80g of basic cream rouge (C0) is made without addition of colourant while 50g
of cream rouge is prepared with addition
of 2% soluble purple colouring agent (C2). Then, the cream with the colorants
is diluted with the basic cream with different proportion to produce 5 cream
rouge to produce different colour shading which labelled as C1, C2, C3, C4 and
C5. The
higher the amount of C2, the higher the concentration of colorants in the
formulation, the darker the colour of the products. Then, the colour of the
five cream rouges produced are vary from each other and getting lighter and
lighter.
In this experiment, soluble purple
colour dyes are used to be added into the basic cream rouge. According
to the Food and Drug Administration, colour additive as defined by the
regulation is any dye, pigment, or other substance that can impart color to a
food, drug, or cosmetic or to the human body. The dyes are water soluble or oil soluble. Oil
soluble dyes will produce a more uniform and even color compared to insoluble
dyes. If the dyes are insoluble in oil phase, the color will sediment at the
bottom of oil phase and cause the color pigments to be distributed unevenly. The
insoluble dye can produce the tint or colour while water soluble dyes will actually
stain the skin.
The chart below show the colour shading of cream
rouge at the various colourant concentration.
The
higher the colourant concentration, the darker the colour of the cream rouge
prepared.
Code
|
C1
|
C2
|
C3
|
C4
|
C5
|
Colourant
(%)
|
2
|
1
|
0.5
|
0.25
|
0.125
|
Colour
|
For stability test, the preparations are placed in the
dark and also exposed to sunlight. The
colour of cream rouges that are exposed to the sunlight became pale white
compared to the original colour. The colour pigments in the preparations
disappeared gradually due to the oil-soluble colorants that dissolved in the
oily-based cream had reacted with the sunlight. Hence, the rouges turned pale
white. Besides that, there is no colour separation in the cream rouges as there
is even distribution of colour pigments in the cream roughs.
According to the test result, the cod 1 and cod 2 cream
roughs became soften both exposed to light and without light while the others
remain hard. The softening of the roughs is maybe due to the instability of the
base that containing the colour pigment, C2. As C1 and C2 contained relatively
large amount of the base containing colour pigment which is unstable,
meanwhile, the other cods contained less amount of the base, therefore, C1 and C2 roughs are unstable and tend to
become soften.
In addition, there is no contamination in each of the
roughs as there is no presence of fungus as well as bacterials in them. They
are closed well with the cover.
Besides, the skin irritation test is also conducted on this
cream rouge prepared. The prepared cream rouge are apply on the cheeks about 8
hours. At the end of results, all the 5
cream rouge are not cause irritation to the skin.This show the the cream rouge
prepared is safe to use.
The ingredients in cream rouge are cocoa
butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid paraffin, borax, colorants and
water. The cocoa butter is an emollient which can soften and lubricate the skin
or function as antioxidants that prevent free radicals from destroying the skin
cells. Beeswax
is a natural emulsifier which allow water and lipid phase of cream rouge to be
miscible. Cetyl alcohol are emulsifier and stabilizes the emulsion. Wool fat,
which is also known as lanolin, make the cream rouge to be water proof, so that
the cream rouge that apply to the cheeks can be long lasting or not wipe away
when in contact with water. Liquid paraffin is an emollient which may also
protects the skin from harmful effects of external factors and ensures the
rouge will not wipe away or rub off easily. Borax is an emulsifier and preservative
that can acts antibacterial agent. Colorants provide attractive colour of the
cream rouge and make the cream rouge more attractive. In cream rouge, water is
used as a solvent that dissolve the ingredient and also acts as ‘spreading’ agent to
distribute other ingredients evenly onto the skin.
There are some
precaution steps are needed to be taken. Storage condition test should be
lengthened in time to get more accurate results. Besides, the cream rouge should
be prepared enough to prevent the shortage of the cream rouge. The cream rouge
that are not exposed to the sunlight are needed to wrap by aluminium fold to
prevent the sunlight pass into it. The concentration of colourant added must be
accurate in quantity to ensure that all 5 cream rouge prepared show different
colour shading obviously.
Conclusion
:
There are a few factors that cause the changes of
the cream roughs. Firstly is the condition of the storage place. For the cream
roughs that exposed to the sunlight, they turned pale white as the colour
pigment will react with the sunlight. Besides that, instability of the base may
also causes the viscosity of the roughs to be different, that is, they will
turn soften instead of hard semisolid.
References:
1.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rouge_%28cosmetics%29
2.
Besame
Cosmetics Crimson Cream Rouge ingredients | CosDNA
http://www.cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_51fc188010.html
