Soap

Soap formulation

Date of experiment : 28 April 2015

Introduction

Saponification is a process that produces soap, usually from fats and lye.The term saponification is the name given to the chemical reaction that occurs when a vegetable oil or animal fat is mixed with a strong alkali. The products of the reaction are two: soap and glycerin. Water is also present, but it does not enter into the chemical reaction. The water is only a vehicle for the alkali, which is otherwise a dry powder.

The name saponification literally means "soap making". The root word, "sapo", is Latin for soap. The Italian word for soap is sapone. Soap making as an art has its origins in ancient Babylon around 2500 - 2800 BC.

The oils used in modern handmade soap are carefully chosen by the soap maker for the character they impart to the final soap. Coconut oil creates lots of glycerin, makes big bubbly lather, and is very stable. Olive oil has natural antioxidants and its soap makes a creamier lather. Tallow, or rendered beef fat, makes a white, stately bar that is firm and creates abundant lather. Many other oils can be used, each one for a specific reason. Your soap maker will be glad to tell you which oils are used to make her or his soap.

The alkali used in modern soap is either potassium hydroxide, which is used to make soft soap or liquid soap because of its greater solubility, or sodium hydroxide, which is used to make bar soap. The common term for the alkali became simply "lye", which curiously is not short for alkali, but originated in the Anglo-Saxon language.

Objectives 

At the end of the practical the students should be able to:

1.Understand the rationate behind the use of the different types of ingredients in  a shampoo formulation.

2.Understand the acid-base reaction (saponification process)by which soap is produced.

3.Evaluate the quality of the products that have been produced.

List of chemicals/items

Oliver oil,vegetable shortening,coconut oil,potassium hydroxide,sodium hydroxide,glucerin,alcohol,castor oil,distilled water,fragrance and essential oils,colourants, honey,oatmeal,tea,coffee,cocoa,vitamin E and camphor

Honey and oatmeal soap bar

Coconut oil	19.6%
Olive oil	19.6%
Vegetable shortening	29.6%
Sodium hydroxide	9.9%
Dsitilled water	20.9%
Honey	0.17%
Oats	0.23%
Colourants	0.23%
Fragrance/essential oils	0.23%

Procedure

1.Prepare the mold

-Molds were cleaned and dry completely.They also were greased with petroleum jelly.

2.Weighing out the fats

-By using a weighing scale,the fats and oils were weighed out.

3.Melting the fats

-All the fats and oils were mixed in a beaker and  the mixture were  heated to around 40-50⁰C.Then the mixture was removed from the heat.

4.Preparing sodium hydroxide solution

-Sodium hydroxide and water was weighed out.Sodium hydroxide was added to water and mixed well.The solution was cooled down.

5.Mixing

-When the sodium hydroxide was completely dissolved in water,the solution was poured into the warm oil mixture in the beaker (the oil become opaque).

-The solution was mixed for 15 minutes  in circular motion  constantly.After a short rest,they was mixed more until thickened.

6.Adding fragrance/Essential oils/other ingredients.

-The mixing was stopped when the mixture form “trace”.(A line or circle on the mixture was drawed to confirm tracing has occurred.The mixture was traced when the line/circle stays on the surface.

-Honey,oats and fragrance was added and was mixed well.

7.Pouring in the mold

-The soap was poured into the mold.Themold was covered and keeped moderately at a warm place.Themold was covered with cloth and leaved for 24-48 hours.

8.Curing

-The soap was removed from the mold.

-As plastic mold was used,themold was freezed for 1-2 hours before  taking the saop out to avoid the soap from sticking to the mold.

-The mold was rested in a cool place for the next 3-4 weeks.

-Any ‘ashy’ powder formed on the soap surface was scraped.

Result

I.Retention of bubble

Weight of soap	Bubbles start to appear	Bubbles start to dissapear	Bubbles totally dissapear
1.5 g	After 1st minute	After 2nd minute	After 4th minute
2.5 g	After 1st minute	After 4th minute	After 6th minute
3.5 g	After 1st minute	After 6th minute	After 8th minute

II.Boiling point

Some pieces of soap were heated on water bath according to the temperatures:

60 ⁰C	No reaction on soap
80 ⁰C	No reaction on soap
100 ⁰C	No reaction on soap

III.Irritation

Everyone of each has to wash our hands using the soap :

A	No irritation
B(sensitive skin)	No irritation
C	No irritation
D(sensitive skin)	No irritation
E	No irritation

IV.ph

We tested a red litmus paper in soap  three times:

	Colour change	Ph scale
1st trial	Red litmus turns to blue	8
2nd trial	Red litmus turns to blue	8
3rd trial	Red litmus turns to blue	9

 Discussion

Soaps are made in a chemical process called saponification. In this reaction, the triglycerides are hydrolyzed into free fatty acids and glycerol. Fatty acids have very useful property of having one end that is hydrophilic, which is also the “acid” part and another end that is hydrophobic which the “fatt” part is. This dual nature allows soaps to dissolve in fat, grease and dirt in water and bring out a very good cleansing property.

General overall saponification  reaction:

Fat + NaOH   →   glycerol + sodium salt of fatty acid

  We had do some test to our soap which is retention of bubble,boiling point,skin irritation and pH.Based on the result,our soap produce bubble and it does not disappear for a long time depending on the weight of soap used.The long time bubble retention proves that our soap works effectively.For boiling test,when we boil various weight of soap,it turn out that no change happen.As there are no change in shape and structure of the soap,it is proven that the soap is stable in structure.Furthermore,we had conducted a skin irritation test for both normal skin and sensitive skin.For both type of skin,there is no skin irritation detected which shows that our skin is good to use buy people of various type of skin.Last but not least,we had performed the pH test on our soap.The result shows the litmus paper turns to blue and the pH indicator shows the pH at 8 which prove that it is in alkaline state.Soap should be in alkaline state and we had managed to produce the soap that is alkaline.

 Conclusion

In conclusion,from this experiment,we get to understand the rational behind the use of the different types of ingredients in  a shampoo formulation.We already understand the acid-base reaction (saponification process)by which soap is produced as well and lastly,we get to evaluate the quality of the products that have been produced.

References 

1. http://www.millersoap.com/phtome.html
2. http://science.uvu.edu/ochem/index.php/alphabetical/s-t/saponification/
3. http://www.gutenberg.org/files/21724/21724-h/21724-h.htm

Cream Rouge

Introduction:

Rouge, or commonly known as blusher, is a coloured cosmetic which is used to enhance or add colour to the face, provide a more youthful appearance, emphasize and give some dimension or shape to their cheekbones by reddening their cheeks using rouge. This type of cosmetic may also give some shading effect to the face. Generally, fair complexions are enhanced by soft shades of peach and pink while brown complexions are best accented with coral shades.

            The early form of rouges were ointments, but modern manufacturing has marketed blushers in many forms including liquid suspension, emulsified creams and lotions, water-free creams and also hydrous and anhydrous gels. Moist rouge is applied before powder while dry rouge is used to accent the already powdered makeup. The colorants used can either be organic pigments, inorganic pigments, natural dyes or pearlescent pigments.

            Currently, the pressed powder becomes more popular among the consumers due to its desirable matte finishing and long-lasting wear potential. It is applied with a blush brush. This formula works for all skin types especially for oily skin. In modern times, rouge consists of a red-coloured talcum-based powder that is applied with a brush to the cheek.

Objective:

1.      To formulate cream rouge.

2.      To formulate cream rouge from 2 commercial hard lipstick preparations.

3.      To study the factor affecting the colour shading in cream rouge.

4.      To evaluate the effect of storage condition on the final product.

Date of Experiment:

24-3-2015

Apparatus:

Evaporating dish, weighing boat, weighing machine, beaker, spatula, pestle and mortar

Materials:

Cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid paraffin, borax, colourants, water

Procedure:

1.      80g of the basic cream formulation is prepared.

2.      The cocoa butter, beeswax, wool fat, cetyl alcohol, liquid paraffin and borax is weighed and is melted on a evaporating dish by using water bath. The mixture is stirred slowly during heating process.

3.      Once the ingredients is melted, the mixture is taken from the heat to cool the mixture.

4.      The water is added to the warm mixture and stirred.

5.      Step 2 to 4 is reapeated to prepare 50g of a cream rouge by adding also the  2% of soluble red colouring agent.

6.      4 other cream rouge is prepared by diluting 2% cream rouge accordingly to obtain various shades of colour with the suggested concentration of colouring agent: 0.125- 2%.

7.      The rouge preparation is kept in the dark and also exposed to sunlight for 2 months.

8.      Skin irritation test is conducted on the cream rouge by putting it on the cheek  for 8 hours.

Result:

Basic powder formulation		80g of C0 (0%)	50g of C2 (2%)
Cocoa butter	5%	4g	2.5g
Beeswax	12%	9.6g	6g
Cetyl alcohol	1%	0.8g	0.5g
Wool fat	5%	4g	2.5g
Liquid Parsffin	30%	24g	15g
Borax	1%	0.8g	0.5g
Colorants (Erythrosine)	2%	xxx	1g
Water qs ad	100%	80g	22g

Code	Colourant (%)	Amount of C2 (g)	Amount of C0 (g)	Total amount of rouge (g)
C1	2	20	-	20
C2	1	15	10	20
C3	0.5	10	15	20
C4	0.25	5	17.5	20
C5	0.125	2.5	18.75	20
	Total (g)	38.75 (~50)	47.5 (~80)

1. Cream rouge under the sun

Code	Colour separation	Contamination	Change in colour	Viscosity
C1	No	No	Change pale white	Soften
C2	No	No	Change pale white	Soften
C3	No	No	Change pale white	Hard
C4	No	No	Change pale white	Hard
C5	No	No	Change pale white	Hard

2. Cream rouge in dark condition

Code	Colour separation	Contamination	Change in colour	Viscosity
C1	No	No	No	Soften
C2	No	No	No	Soften
C3	No	No	No	Hard
C4	No	No	No	Hard
C5	No	No	No	Hard

3. Cream rouge test on cheek

Code	Site of Testing	Duration of time	Result
C1	Cheek	8 Hours	No irritation
C2	Cheek	8 Hours	No irritation
C3	Cheek	8 Hours	No irritation
C4	Cheek	8 Hours	No irritation
C5	Cheek	8 Hours	No irritation

4. Chart of colour shading of cream rouge

Code	C1	C2	C3	C4	C5
Colourant (%)	2	1	0.5	0.25	0.125
Colour

Discussion:

Cream rouge can be divided into two phases which are the oil phase and water phase. The ingredient that present in oil phase of cream rouge are cocoa butter, beeswax, wool fat and liquid paraffin while the water phase is usually the preservatives, colorants and water. Two creams formulation are made up in this experiment where 80g of basic cream rouge (C0) is made without addition of colourant while 50g of cream rouge  is prepared with addition of 2% soluble purple colouring agent (C2). Then, the cream with the colorants is diluted with the basic cream with different proportion to produce 5 cream rouge to produce different colour shading which labelled as C1, C2, C3, C4 and C5. The higher the amount of C2, the higher the concentration of colorants in the formulation, the darker the colour of the products. Then, the colour of the five cream rouges produced are vary from each other and getting lighter and lighter.

In this experiment, soluble purple colour dyes are used to be added into the basic cream rouge. According to the Food and Drug Administration, colour additive as defined by the regulation is any dye, pigment, or other substance that can impart color to a food, drug, or cosmetic or to the human body. The dyes are water soluble or oil soluble. Oil soluble dyes will produce a more uniform and even color compared to insoluble dyes. If the dyes are insoluble in oil phase, the color will sediment at the bottom of oil phase and cause the color pigments to be distributed unevenly. The insoluble dye can produce the tint or colour while water soluble dyes will actually stain the skin.

The chart below show the colour shading of cream rouge  at the various colourant concentration. The higher the colourant concentration, the darker the colour of the cream rouge prepared.

Code	C1	C2	C3	C4	C5
Colourant (%)	2	1	0.5	0.25	0.125
Colour

For stability test, the preparations are placed in the dark and also exposed to sunlight. The colour of cream rouges that are exposed to the sunlight became pale white compared to the original colour. The colour pigments in the preparations disappeared gradually due to the oil-soluble colorants that dissolved in the oily-based cream had reacted with the sunlight. Hence, the rouges turned pale white. Besides that, there is no colour separation in the cream rouges as there is even distribution of colour pigments in the cream roughs.

According to the test result, the cod 1 and cod 2 cream roughs became soften both exposed to light and without light while the others remain hard. The softening of the roughs is maybe due to the instability of the base that containing the colour pigment, C2. As C1 and C2 contained relatively large amount of the base containing colour pigment which is unstable, meanwhile, the other cods contained less amount of the base, therefore,  C1 and C2 roughs are unstable and tend to become soften.

In addition, there is no contamination in each of the roughs as there is no presence of fungus as well as bacterials in them. They are closed well with the cover.

Besides, the skin irritation test is also conducted on this cream rouge prepared. The prepared cream rouge are apply on the cheeks about 8 hours. At the end of results,  all the 5 cream rouge are not cause irritation to the skin.This show the the cream rouge prepared is safe to use.

The ingredients in cream rouge are cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid paraffin, borax, colorants and water. The cocoa butter is an emollient which can soften and lubricate the skin or function as antioxidants that prevent free radicals from destroying the skin cells. Beeswax is a natural emulsifier which allow water and lipid phase of cream rouge to be miscible. Cetyl alcohol are emulsifier and stabilizes the emulsion. Wool fat, which is also known as lanolin, make the cream rouge to be water proof, so that the cream rouge that apply to the cheeks can be long lasting or not wipe away when in contact with water. Liquid paraffin is an emollient which may also protects the skin from harmful effects of external factors and ensures the rouge will not wipe away or rub off easily. Borax is an emulsifier and preservative that can acts antibacterial agent. Colorants provide attractive colour of the cream rouge and make the cream rouge more attractive. In cream rouge, water is used as a solvent that dissolve the ingredient  and also acts as ‘spreading’ agent to distribute other ingredients evenly onto the skin.

There are some precaution steps are needed to be taken. Storage condition test should be lengthened in time to get more accurate results. Besides, the cream rouge should be prepared enough to prevent the shortage of the cream rouge. The cream rouge that are not exposed to the sunlight are needed to wrap by aluminium fold to prevent the sunlight pass into it. The concentration of colourant added must be accurate in quantity to ensure that all 5 cream rouge prepared show different colour shading obviously.

Conclusion :

There are a few factors that cause the changes of the cream roughs. Firstly is the condition of the storage place. For the cream roughs that exposed to the sunlight, they turned pale white as the colour pigment will react with the sunlight. Besides that, instability of the base may also causes the viscosity of the roughs to be different, that is, they will turn soften instead of hard semisolid.

References:

1.      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rouge_%28cosmetics%29

2.      Besame Cosmetics Crimson Cream Rouge ingredients | CosDNA

http://www.cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_51fc188010.html

3.      http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/learn/borax_powder.php

4.      http://www.docstoc.com/docs/16331701/Pharmaceutical-excipiet